Johnson 115 outboard cranks but won’t start?
OMC JOHNSON EVINRUDE ENGINE HARNESS ASSY, 1999 225HP EVINRUDE OUTBOARD/MOTOR
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Question by Mark M: Johnson 115 outboard cranks but won't start?
1975 Johnson 115 outboard engine cranks but won't start. Seems to be getting fuel and has good compression. What controls the ingtion to fire the spark plugs?
Best answer:
Answer by kb9pvj
Check the kill switch on the outboard. I've seen these fail many a times. The internal parts is what fails. Also check the coils. Best of luck.
Know better? Leave your own answer in the comments!
Here is a easy way to make a shift shaft height tool to measure you shift shaft height when servising your gearcase.
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Tags: cranks, johnson, outboard, Start, won't
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October 23rd, 2010 at 6:34 am
I had it on a 275hp Johnson
It turned out to be the “kill” switch had shorted, with an intake of water.
Ripped it off, twisted the wires together, and away we go.
Electrics, then, mon ami
Probably !
Bob
October 23rd, 2010 at 7:12 am
There is no kill switch on that year> Check the fuse on the engine connected to the solenoid> If Ok than go the the key switch disconnect Black & Yellow wire>Crank and see if there is spark at the plugs> if so replace the key switch> This is the shut off wire or ground to stop the engine> If No spark On the engine there is a yellow & black wire on the pulspack disconnect crank engine and see if you have spark> If spark replace the harness or run a new wire or check the red or black harness plug>If this doesn’t fix it than have the engine checked>
October 23rd, 2010 at 7:14 am
Forget about the fuse, if it blows, you won’t get power to the keyswitch, the motor won’t crank.
check for spark: remove a plug, reattach it to the boot, hold it against the engine block and look for spark while somebody turns the engine over with the key. use a plastic or insulated tool.
no spark any cylinder, first make sure you have a fully charged battery — it takes at least 250 to 300 cranking RPM’s for the magneto to generate enough electricity for spark.
Then rule out the kill circuit. It’s a black wire w/yellow tracer coming off the powerpack, through the main wiring harness, to the raised keyswitch terminal “M”. Connecting this wire to ground kills the motor by shorting the powerpack.
Unplug the big red main wiring harness and test for spark again, jump the solenoid to crank. If the motor starts like this, the only way to shut it off is to manually operate the choke. If you get spark like this it means the black/yellow wire is accidently coming in contact with a ground wire somewhere in the boat wiring harness, or else the keyswitch is faulty. The keyswitch is most likely — the two “M” terminals should test positive for continuity when the key is in the “off” position, and open circuit all other times.
If that doesn’t help, inspect the wiring on the powerhead, make sure there’s no chafed/missing/burned insulation. Inspect all the engine block ground wires.
If you see a sticky substance on the power head that might have come from the flywheel, you have some magnets coming loose due to melting epoxy.
Still no good, then either the powerpack, timer base or stator are faulty. You can test powerpack and stator output if you have a DVA adaptor for your multimeter — at cranking speed, powerpack output to the coils should be minimum 250 volts peak AC, stator output to the powerpack should be at least 0.5 peak VAC.
If you don’t have test equipment, the most likely culprit is the powerpack, also the easiest to replace, not to mention which, there’s worse things in life than having a spare powerpack on board.
Flywheel has to come off to get at the stator and timer base. At this point, you’ll need a good service manual (OEM manuals are available at marineengine.com), or else a qualified marine service tech.
October 23rd, 2010 at 7:52 am
If the boat is equipped with a kill switch , that is the first thing I would look at . It sounds like it is turning and everything , but the engine will not fire until that kill switch is engaged.
October 23rd, 2010 at 7:59 am
I have been looking for a way to do this on my new to me 1996 Evinrude 48 SPL for quite awhile. The fear of not using the expensive factory tool has kept me from changing my water pump. Now I will be able to do the job with confidence! Thank you so much for taking the time to post this useful video!